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To beat the killer combination of jet lag and altitude on arrival in the Mile High City, use the tools at your disposal — or local dispensary. I advise newcomers to:
- Jog around Cheesman Park and the Botanic Gardens in bright sunshine, or thick snow (likely both)
- Buy up all the melatonin in Walgreens
- Drink copious local beers
- Have a smoke, if that’s your jam
- Grab a meal
- Hit the hay
- Repeat as necessary
Denver’s bursting with shiny new concept restaurants and kitsch little nooks to drop into; so my muddled brain was grateful for any steer. I hounded discerning friends for recommendations, downloaded Stoned Appetit (a genius app full of the best spots to satisfy the munchies), and took aim at anywhere with a James Beard nod. These spots are slamming, whether you’re high or just a mile above sea level.
Leven Deli
Part-classic Jewish deli, part-Mediterranean restaurant, part-bakery, part-wine shop, and always a line out of the door. There’s a plethora of great delis in Denver, but this is your place if you want a Greek mojito with your twelve-day-aged pastrami on grilled rye. Drop in after a wander through the Denver Art Museum next door. Time your visit to make Happy Hour on the terrace, 4-7 p.m.
Order this: An impossibly large sandwich with pickles and a side. Boxes are provided, so you can take half home to eat later.
Read the menu: Eatleven.com
Bring along: A big appetite. And I mean big.
Hudson Hill
Capitol Hill’s most refined and airy café, with very good coffee and incredibly good pastries. Park up here if you need to get some work done, then slam the laptop shut and order a cocktail late afternoon. Or just, you know, afternoon.
Order this: Don’t make me choose between the almond croissant and the green chili cheddar roll. Do us all a favor and get both.
Read the menu: Hudsonhilldenver.com
Bring along: A portable laptop charger.
Safta
A love letter to joyful Israeli cuisine. Somewhat unusually found in what feels like a university breakout area within an echo-ey modern building — but worth seeking out. It’s dangerously easy to fill up on homemade breads mopped up with hummus, laden with bombastic toppings like lamb ragu with crispy chickpeas and scallions. If you don’t save quite enough room for Persian rice with sunflower seeds and cherries, plus half a harissa chicken with charred lemon, get a doggy bag.
Order this: I’m still thinking about the harissa mayo-drizzled, sheba-spiced fingerling potatoes I ate in bed, the next day.
Read the menu: Eatwithsafta.com
Bring along: Adventurous eaters who’ll try anything.
Mister Oso
When someone asks if you want to get tacos in Denver (which is most days), the de facto response is: “real tacos or bouji tacos?” Mister Oso’s your go-to for the bouji variety. Speedy service, pure comfort food, proper Micheladas.
Order this: A taco piled high with lamb barbacoa plus a Brussels sprout salad and sticky coconut rice was worth every minute of the deep food coma that soon followed.
Read the menu: Misterosotacos.com
Bring along: A designated driver, so you can get stuck into the booze.
Uncle
Here’s your zero fuss, “no brow” ramen shop that knows exactly what it’s doing. Start with the daily selection of crudo (translates literally to “raw”) small plates then share some new dishes on rotation, like fried chicken Katsu or short rib Panang curry. Noodle-wise go spicy, always.
Order this: I like the seared confit chicken in pork-based sesame broth, with bean sprouts and a soft poached egg. Best eaten on a Sunday, during a surprise snowstorm.
Read the menu: Uncleramen.com
Bring along: The friend with a hangover so heavy that only bone-singingly spicy noodles will do.
El Five
On the fifth floor of 2930 Umatilla, El Five comes with pretty spectacular views of the downtown Denver skyline. The cocktails are strong, and the plates start small, hailing from Spain, North Africa and the Middle East. It’s a thumping place to kick off a big night.
Order this: I can vouch for the goat cheese croquettas, Matzo ball soup dumplings, harissa eggplant fries and the huge bowl of seafood paella that just about finished us off (in a good way).
Read the menu: Ediblebeats.com/el-five
Bring along: Party people who like the lights low and corners naughty.
The Family Jones
A local distillery making its own vodka, gin, rum, rye and bourbon, served up in the decadent Spirit House space with above-average bar snacks to boot. Cocktails are divided into “Bright & Lifted” or “Boozy & Bold” menus, or you can go ham and build your own flight of up to eight spirits. Godspeed.
Order this: Buttery popcorn, deviled eggs with paprika-chicharrón and roasted green chili cornbread. The “Second Divorce Martini” got a laugh (and a thumbs up) from my friend, just completing her first.
Read the menu: Thefamilyjones.co
Bring along: Your brainiest friend. The Family Jones hosts regular spelling bees, with (predictably intoxicating) prizes.
EDGE
Once you’ve fully acclimatized (read: can finally sit through a meal without needing matchsticks to prop your eyelids open), a fancy blow-out meal beckons. You’ll find the chi chi Four Seasons hotel in the heart of the city, busy with creative types sipping cocktails and travelers watching sports games in the main bar, any night of the week. Locally sourced Colorado game is a big draw, notwithstanding the fabulous selection of meat.
Order this: Silky Maryland crab soup, the six-ounce filet mignon (with a lobster tail topper! you’re on vacation!) or the Korean BBQ glazed cauliflower. Truffle mac ’n’ cheese, obviously.
Read the menu: Edgerestaurantdenver.com
Bring along: Fancy shoes.
